Café
The village of Minca is the definition of sleepy. Casas laze along both sides of the
mountain road high above the coastal valley that cradles Santa Marta. Here the mountain air
dries the skin rather than sticks to it. The heat rises in the afternoons; still the village is cooler by
fifteen degrees than below. Along the river that parallels the road, it is even cooler, pleasant but
for the companionship of chiggers, mosquitoes, flies, and other long-term residents. Choking the
water with massive granite boulders, the river scoops out deep pools. A haze colored by
microscopic life creates a green and gold backdrop to peering at schools of minnows.
One road bumps in and out of Minca. The severely pocked asphalt crosses a hopeful
bridge that glares down at the river as it plunges. A Catholic Church, white-washed with an
inviting open door faces a small park of sand and struggling flowers. This is the village center.
An attractive middle-aged woman beckons the taxi. She and the driver talk. She turns to
the backseat and offers English directions to the pools. Behind her against the wall of her home,
a poster in English announces, “Organic Colombian Coffee.” She answers the query, “ No, it is
not a restaurante, a café. “Great”, enthuses the reply, “A café.” Si, Senor, café.” As the taxi
slowly pulls away, the woman continues her directions to the driver walking faster into a jog.
Very helpful. The conversation in the backseat confirms that after the pools, the couple will
enjoy a cup of organic Colombian coffee with their lunch.
The driver is convinced to wait for them. They traipse down a dirt road to the sound of
the river growing closer. A young boy, expert on his bicycle, joins them. Gestures suffice for
words. He fastens to them as guide. Sometimes he thinks they understand Spanish and he
jabbers for a few minutes. He stops when she says, “Lo siento.” A fifteen minutes scramble over
boulders and sandy rocks, Jairo strips off his shirt and leaps from a tall boulder into a pool
shadowy deep pool. The man strips to his underwear, wades into the cool green, and plunges
headfirst. The lady begins to pull down her khaki shorts to join the fun, when an older boy joins
the Jairo in the pool with an exuberant splash. She ducks and buttons.
Many times the young boy climbs the boulders that surround the depth of water. He is
fearless up and down the speckled granite chunks. He never hints at slip; his bare feet are like
climbing boots. The older one is more cautious. But they only jump, never dive, because the
bottom isn’t visible. Between two boulders the water rushes. Jairo dips deep and swim against
the current. Uncertain, the man gives it a try. You have to look and the blocks of stone litter the
bottom with fish grazing. The waters are less a force in the depth.
On the way back up to the village, Jairo is paid 2,000 pesos for his service. His smile
shows surprise. He hops on his bike and disappears of the steep road. Near the church, we see
him with a foil wrapped empanada and a Coke. He smiles and balancing his treats, he peddles
down a grassy path.
Across from the café, the driver nurses a Coke in the blaze of the afternoon sun. He sits
on a low wall facing the colorful coffee poster. The wife sits down next to him. Only the man
ventures to the café, bold to try new food and a fresh cup of coffee.
As he knocks on the screen, he makes out a sofa occupied by an older woman. The
furniture is tasteful, arranged with care. The English-speaking woman appears. It dawns on him
that this is not a restaurante; it isn’t a café either. She explains that the poster is a product of her
graphic design work for a coffee company headquartered in Bogota. I glimpse mama slipping
into another room. He is invited to sit down on iron bench outside. The gracious woman
disappears into the house. His wife and the driver across the way are smiling, and not in support
of his adventure.
It dawns on all of them that is not even a café, but a home. They howled, he flushed and
yelled for them to shut up while whispering his plight, “I’m so embarrassed.” They catcalled.
They hooted.
Presently, the woman taps at the screen door with her foot to open it. She carries a
silver tray with a silver sugar bowl and a porcelain cup of café. He apologizes profusely. She
assured him that it is no trouble. He wants to gulp it down and get out of there. The coffee is hot,
he can’t gulp, and he is sweating under the sun.
After a gracious interval, the woman returns to collect the service. Apologies and more
apologies are uttered. The woman smiles and explains her work and clients like the Colombian
Organic Coffee Association. He pays her despite her protests.
Finally, in haste he retreats down the street. The taxi follows; it’s occupants, merciless.
1
Hills Baked Brown
Out the classroom window, a soft brown hill rises like fresh baked bread. Cacti
emerge from the undulating folds like raisins. A moment ago, from the southeast
sunshine cracked a mountaintop, split it. My eyes wander a wide dirt road a hundred
yards distant beneath the hill. The s-curved road disappears into scrub brush around a
stiff bend in the distance.
In half-an hour, close to 7:00, the road fills. Schoolgirls dressed in plaid green
skirts walk toward the Troncal. Sometimes alongside them, boys scuffle reluctantly to
prison in dark pants and white shirts. The will catch the bus to school, a building without
running water, devoid of equipment, but optimistic.
And women and some men travel this way too with lunches in plastic bags,
apples and a slice of bread wrapped in napkins. At the highway, they will taste the warm
goodness of empanadas cooked roadside. Their barrio lies behind a mountain curve
where I cannot see.
No travelers plod the quiet. Then, I notice a figure. His hair is a bundle of smoke,
but for the valley through the crown. He shuffles. Like the schoolboys perhaps he
scuffles for different reasons, perhaps the same. A walking stick steadies a fragile frame.
It’s a blue walking stick, bright blue, likely scavenged from a construction site that
borders the barrio.
I watch him patiently, he patiently walking. I’ll lose sight of him when he
disappears around the curve. He makes an abrupt right turn onto a steep rutted track.
The shuffle slows. He barely moves up and forward. He moves toward a line of five
houses that my first glance ignored. They lean together. Tentatively they rise with
concrete block walls. Corrugated metal thatches the roof. Some sides are nailed with
wood or cardboard. I judge them uninhabitable. But of the world’s dwellings would
denounce my silly judgment. It dawns on me, these are homes.
I squint to follow the old man to his home. I find him barefoot. He leans the blue
walking stick against the threshold. He turns toward me and looks up. I step away from
the window in the fear he’s looking at me. Silly. I step back to the window. The old man
has turns and surveys the Hill Backed Brown as he has for many mornings. With his
bare hand he wipes sweat from his head. And then vanished inside his home.
Juan Valdez
Juan Valdez doesn’t own this coffee shop. But is face is pictured here as it is all
over Colombia. His emblematic figure complete with blanket across his chest,
Colombiano sombrero, and manicured mustache adorns the better neighborhoods. The
sturdy burro by his side remains nameless.
From the humble years of leading his burro up the treacherous mountain trail to
tend eleven coffee bushes, to today’s thousands working the fields. It is unlikely that
Valdez strolls that path anymore. Perhaps coffee’s icon is decrepit from back bending
labor, or ensconced penthouse style in Sun Valley. Burro-buddy is likely stuffed bending
toward eternal grass on a lane that leads to corporate headquarters.
In tropical Juan Valdez-Santa Marta, a panoramic photo sits in the counter
revealing a crowd of Juan Valdez look-alikes with shoulder blankets, broad mustaches,
colorful hats, and running shoes. Their only encounter with field -work involves monthly
inspections of Juan Valdez stores in Colombia.
The Juan Valdez place of café looks out on an esplanade under re-construction.
Only the granite Simon Bolivar remains. The brick and stone walkway has been turned
under and carted away by men melted in the tropical sun. Backbreaking doesn’t quite
cover it. As with many workers in Colombia, they wear uniforms. These are royal blue
pants and long-sleeved shirts. Gloves keep their skin from wooden handles; dark glasses
from glare, and around their forehead tied rags slow the sweat. From cardboard, each
man has fashioned cutouts for their heads. Once placed, above the sweatband there are
exceedingly long brims that jut far forward and far backward. Hardhats crown them. A
woman adorned with a white hardhat supervises with impressive authority, evidently
proud of extensive belly,
Weathering the heat and wind, and occasional rain, like Bolivar, the Juan Valdez
spot is all outdoors. Meandering trees, ferns, flowers, and short palms provide more than
shade. Coffee shop isn’t the right moniker. Coffee Garden? Caribe Café? Oasis? In the
center, a fountain appears refreshing, more so if it functioned. Bare feet enjoy the cool of
dark read tiles. Several square and rectangular retaining walls stable the green growing
plants and splashes of color. Tables and chairs are situated on three levels of patio. The
breeze up from the sea rarely reaches the garden because it is blocked by the walls of two
building at right angles to the open streets. The wind is stymied.
Café calor sweats. Café frio refreshes.
Momentary stillness occurs, but all is not peaceful near Juan Valdez’s. The
backhoe across the way accelerates with diesel blares. Unceasing taxis and moto-taxis ply
the streets with staccato blares from their horns. This is the accepted mode of
communication: potential fares are hailed; polite warnings are issued to donkey carts,
bicycles, motorcycles, other taxis, to be aware of a quicker presence; and certainly not
least, a token toot in admiration of a pretty Colombian woman. A block a way, the noisy
market that is San Andreas offers whatever one needs or doesn’t need at bargained prices.
There the sidewalks fill with vendors along skinny broken sidewalks; they swell with
walkers and hawkers alike. The din rises with the swarm.
Suddenly, a half-a-block a way a striking figure stands and looks up and down the
crossing streets. No one pays attention. If he’s lost no one cares. Loose fitting pants are
covered to his thigh with a smock. They are of purest white. The man’s hair is wavy and
the purest black to his shoulders. His sandals are handcrafted. The cochila, made in his
mountain village, hangs across his shoulder. His people are indigenous to Colombia.
Some conjecture these native Colombian’s (the majority population calls them “Indians)
stretch back to the Inca’s. They are not the synergy of Spanish, African, Caribbean, and
Middle-Eastern of Latin America. They are their own, mysterious. They’re people
cupped in mountains of the Sierra Nevada.
Barely perceptible, a passer-by’s glimpse admits curiosity.
The Juan Valdez Garden Café begins to stir, not with sea breeze, but with the
passionate lovers of café and conversation. The long shadows of afternoon bring an
illusion of cool.
Juan, you planted one hell of a bean and look what happened.
Opening
After the sun glows into the Caribbean, the heat piles into heaps. The evening
cools slightly. Humidity licks at forearms, throat, waistband, and the back of the neck.
Sleep arrives slowly kindly helped by the false breeze from a fan. In early morning, the
wind blows into the apartment with the sand. On the outdoor steps of Cristimar, the
apartment, the wind stiffens from the north and thrashes my gray hair. I grit my teeth and
whirl my back against windward.
The taxi to Bureche is stop and go, go, go. The cab driver makes a breathsucking pass around the truck toward an oncoming bus. I grip the handle above the
door.
Alive and alone I stand on the balcony of the second floor of the high school. I
lean against the railing. Mornings are perpetual summer in the tropic. Overhead,
blackbirds join a chorus of green parrots. A fat iguana muscles up the trunk of the tree
next to me, close enough to enter my space. But, I’m no longer startled. They are shy as
deer even though they look like dragons. It is soon arriving students that raise my
anxiety. Unlocking the classroom door, I review the morning plan for the fourteenth time.
I fuss with the chairs, and return to the refuge of the balcony.
At the far end, a tree grows twisted toward the sky, and then veers almost
horizontally eastward. Its leaves appear withered and sparse. The tree survives the lack
of water through a massive trunk supported by miles of roots. In fall, monsoons arrive to
fill the roots.
My attention rises to a blue mountain as the sun finds a notch and spills gold
down the broad Santa Marta Valley, and on to the coastal panorama from Tagnanga to
El Rodadero. The light slides from the mountain to my companionable tree. I am
comforted by sunrise. Some sunrises are remembered in frosty alpine glades, or seen
through the pineapple rain of Maui’s diffused light. Many sunrises are caught in my soul
as life preservers. I imbibe sweet calm.
Stare
Disarmed but for her stare, the old woman with skin dark, taut from too many Caribbean
years sits frozen, her head turned. Frozen but for eyes that stare. Brown eyes so dark as to be
as to shine black at a distance. Unmoving, they bore. No commentary from her body, her voice
is silent. No telltale sign betrays her. Just the stare as the wheel chair breezes through the cool
and spacious indoor mall that is Buena Vista. Entering midlife, her granddaughter pushes with
one hand, her voice loud in the cell phone, ignoring her sour grandmother.
The younger woman throws back her head, strides with energy, and attends to the
window dressings willing for the seduction of fashion shops while at the same time providing
detailed descriptions to the girl friend listening and strolling in the midst of other crowds. “How
would that dress look on me,” she asks her absent confidant, “I’m not that fat?” The seduction
will consummate when she snaps the credit card on to the glass display when they pass this
way again to catch a taxi. The wonder is her ability to attend to the decrepitude below her, the
talk in her ear, and the dresses beckoning from the window of Coach.
But grandma attends to one task. Her back is as stiff as if were fused by ancients. But even that
does not distract her.
Before 11:00 the mall is still spotless and nearly empty. By lunch it fills. Moms chase
little ones. Fathers scowl. Teenagers slink with fashions from Bogota or Cali that originated in
London or Paris, or U.S. Who knows from where they originate, China? Girls carry fat purses
and flaunt flat exposed bellies. No tattoos initiate their arms, only a few piercings. Their ell
phones either remain cemented to their palms or slide into sleek pockets. Either way, though,
they are consulted often. One ponders, how many texts or calls could have arrived from the
moment they entered the mall to the thirty giggling steps they have taken before they check
again. They are no different from their peers around the world.
Exito is the hub in Buena Vista--an if-they-don’t-have-it you-don’t-need-it kind of place.
Groceries, eye glasses, vitamins, medications, groceries, clothing, cosmetics, kitchenware,
boogie boards, bicycles, computers, washing machines, liquor, and, of course, motorcycles.
Many of these items are gathered in discrete cubicles that line the wall in front of the checkout
stands. Their proprietors are kind and quietly helpful.
Grandma ignores Exito. For moments she is riveted a girl of not more three-years. She
stands on a two-foot high granite retaining wall that encloses a display of fake flowers, fake fica
trees, and real small tones. He throws them into themselves with infinite repetition. The kid
aims, throws, giggles, and turns to her toward her dad with a wry smile before another toss, and
another.
Does grandma dimly recall the sailor dress, blue and white? Only that dress would adorn
Sunday mornings. She accepted no alternative even when her mother tempted her with a new
outfit. Inside the Cathedral, the hard wooden pew squeezed with mama, and her ten siblings,
but not papa. He religiously absented himself. His Sunday’s were devoted to cosmic
contemplation with fellow pilgrims and cerveza. So disciplined was papa’s ritual, that even when
his mother visited Santa Marta from Cartegena, he continued steadfast in his ritual.
Or does she see the baby, her granddaughter’s mother, swaddled in stiff hand-washed
diapers asleep in a wooden crate beside a loveless bed. Night after night, with a bamboo fan,
she defended her baby from the invasion of mosquitoes. And she suckled her until her milk
dried up when Juan Carlos ventured to Peru. He returned the next year, but not really.
But nothing can be discerned from her blank face.
The girl continues in her world of laughing pebbles. People pass unseeing. Grandma
sees. The intensity of her stare diminishes not a degree. Maybe she’s stuck like a brittle Bing
Crosby 78, “… bye-bye, blackbird.”
No word greets the girl, not a smile.
Surgery
Like fish on ice they laid flat and motionless on aluminum gurneys. The room
was bone white. A single unadorned bulb glowed their tucked coarse sheets. Face up,
with eyes closed against the white, or the pain, or the fear, the gathering ignored one
another. When their eyes flutter open the view rivets into a shelf fastened three feet above
their heads into a cement wall with angle iron. Oxygen masks peer over each fish hold.
Two wrists receive the drip, drip, drip into their veins.
The patient in the corner began a second round of hiccupping with the same result
as the first—increased frequency and strength, and then vomiting in an elliptical stainless
steel container, and finally sobbing. One mustached middle-aged man with skin like
chocolate moaned a one-note tedious melody.
In time, the room emptied except for one unclaimed patient. He perceived his
future without anxiety. A mild sedative injected into his IV port didn’t bring sleep, but
bliss. Suddenly, the bed rolled with a start. He must have slept. A young nurse in dark
blue scrubs and a white hair net whisked him into the operating room. Only one wall was
scraped.
The relative sanctuary of the operating room was a relief from the pounding.
Down the main hallway three workmen took turns with a heavy hammer and steel chisels
to punish a section of concrete floor. At first, he thought it must be outside on the street.
But a glimpse down the hall revealed the source. The crack of cement was unabated until
5:00, the scheduled surgery appointment.
In the operating room, an electric air-conditioner hung on the wall near the
ceiling. It blasted cold. He was uncovered except for the backless green gown. He helped
as he was lifted on to the table while holding together the meek covering of his back
parts. A second nurse had joined the first and she wagged her finger at him, the
ubiquitous sign for “no” and pointed. He understood immediately, take off the
underwear. The briefs slid from his nakedness as he tried, without success, to cover-up
with the useless gown.
They smiled. He smiled, sheepishly.
The swinging door banged open. A young man sprouting jokes for the enjoyment
of the nurses pushed a grand machine next to the operating table. It appeared like
sophisticated warp speed device from Star Trek. The jokester fiddled and fussed, plugged
and unplugged, looked at the monitor, looked at the nurses and parleyed another joke. All
was lost on the patient who a smidgeon of survival Spanish. Suddenly, the apparatus
with a monitor on top was rolled out of the room. Maybe the surgery was canceled due to
the machinations of the machine. It had been six-months from injury to this moment of
healing. Not another delay?
No. The nurses asked him, in sign language, to hop on to the gurney and he was
careened toward the second operating room and larger by two. And here was Groucho,
doing his deadpan to the shameful giggles of nurse #1 and nurse #2. With agility of a
vaudevillian, the plugging and unplugging, switching, adjusting, the entertainment
continued to flow.
One of the gowned nurses gestured. He correctly guessed, “Roll over on your left
side.” A group of firm hands with a lift and a push fulfilled the command. Here’s where
the bait-and-switch occurred. The sign language nurse flicked the air out of a full syringe.
This is cake, he thought, I’m sporting the IV port the anesthetic will be a breeze. She
tapped a few drips more and bent down to jab the rubber port; he felt a cold liquid swipe
along his backbone. Oh crap. This surgery requires a regional anesthetic; the kind that a
delivering woman receives with gratitude. He sweats. The numbing entered the body
through a needle in his spine. The jolt was momentary and then his toes, feet, and finally
is legs evaporated. Bliss returned. He was rolled on to his back; he couldn’t possibly do
that himself. He was legless.
Dr. del Gordo’s magical face appeared. He and the unseen anesthesiologist had
words together and both laughed. It must be a fund place to work. Paranoia steeped aside
as another sedative dripped. Anesthetic. Who cares if they are bemused at his underwearless torso?
He smiled like a drunk without stumbling, no legs. Then the nurses giggled
politely, maybe four or five. A crowd. Who cares? He supposed his leg was raised and
the foot placed on a steel foot brace that he had noticed when he helped lift himself on the
table. It looked like a shoeshine step, only complicated. He attended to the monitor above
the “machine.” It seemed to be working but the picture revealed only albino whales
attacked by a metallic shark. Dozens of white flakes floated from the whale. He raised his
head for a closer look. The surgeon with two joysticks in his hands was likewise was
gazing at the monitor and moving the sticks accordingly. Fascinating. These must be the
camera and the thingy that scrapes, shaves, and cuts, could it stitch?
The surgeon quietly commanded, “Mr. please it good to you be down. It will hurt
the anesthetic.” Don’t want that. The inflicted patient could barely notice the procedure if
he tilted his head to the side. Now and then he’d sag and snooze.
The doc startled him conscious with an “Oh!” The sterile room hushed. The naked
mackerel logically concluded the fun was over. Maybe a tendon was busted, or a cracked
patella, but more than likely a sea of bone cancer. It seemed it was a secretive albino
whale, missed by sonar. The event concluded with a warm smile, the doc leaned in with
assurances. The patient smiled. H thought, why do does this man with whom I cannot talk
about baseball or the fate of the world evoke such teary emotions—father or god-like,
worthy of adoration, I wonder if he as a spare room. The euphoria wears off when the
painkillers cease, or at the final office exam when all is healed and life lead away from
scalpels, but for the moment, dependency.
Back on the gurney, a grind along the wall due to a miscalculated launch, he is
returned to the hold of comatose fishes. The room was still. Out of the solitude, hiccups
began and the inevitable. At least the concrete blasters were home for supper.
Yellow
Yellow. Expected of course, all the taxis in Santa Marta are yellow. El conductors wears
an unusual cap. It reminds you of a tam ‘o shanter except is as yellow as his beloved vehicle,
yellow, solid yellow. Moreover, the sports shirt is yellow as well as the matching pants—even
shoes, polished leather, perhaps tango shoes you see our man tangos.
Our man’s regalia was striking, not only the consistency of yellow but the contrast with
his dark brown skin. Colombian culture reveals citizens from Nordic features to the African and
Middle-eastern ancestors. This canary conductor expressed the cool color against the vividly
illuminated yellow.
However this is only the appetizer to this banquet. He is a musician without an
instrument but with an internal rhythm and back up voice as tango, samba, rumba, a variety of
Latin rhythms play the taxi’s CD stereo. Recorded at the Copa Cabana in New York City, yellow
man assists the gusto with voice and percussion on the steering wheel. The dashboard provides
just the right sound for counter rhythm.
It’s the voice that carries the across Santa Marta journey. No Italian crooner this
firebrand, or bossa stylist, pure Latin, pure joy sings from his mustached mouth. He booms, he
softens; he energizes each syllable. Throughout his performance, a broad smile peers through
the rear-mirror at the two passengers smiling back at him.
Taxi cabs in Santa Marta a tacit protocol. Initially, chaos is the only description. Two-lane
roads often and immediately widen to three and four or more lanes as buses, eighteen
wheelers, mini-fans, taxis, bicycles, and donkey carts vie for speed or nonchalance as the case
may be. The neophyte experiences fear of life and limb, often with eyes closed. The literal right
of passage finds ultimate expression in the horn. Horns blast ubiquitously to pass a bus by
crossing a yellow line, pulling out in traffic, or a passing inquiry, or acknowledging a pretty girl.
But the system works, it really does. And the fear factor among aliens to Colombia
dissipates, though it does not disappear. This complex system works. For example, the horn is
a critical aspect of safety. Unless you jump at the jolt of a horn near you backside, the quick
blast of a horn makes sense in Santa Marta.
Senor Yellow shows a conservative flair with horn use. He’s rather more ambitious with
the steering wheel and the techniques of weaving a darting. Of course, his forte is music,
singing and beating out the rhythm. This swallows his attention and more often than not dictates
a sudden swerve. At drives end, his smile broadens with discernible English, “Go dance me?”
Candy Bag
Against the yellow wall festooned with what faux columns, an imitation of
colonial days, the sun declines toward the sea. The color burnishes as the bank building
nears the anonymity of night, but not yet. In the clarity of ocean and sunset, soldiers
emerge from a side street and talk casually in front of yellow. They wear fatigues. Their
pants tuck into polished boots. The smell of steel from their automatic rifles tinges the
mix of Caribbean air. A less than youthful soldier with a big belly and a machine gun
slung over his shoulder commands a group of boys. The clean-shaven (if shaven at all)
privates wield their automatic rifles like broom handles, or novice baton twirlers at
tryouts for the marching band. Are they loaded?
These sixty-day veterans loiter between the columns.
A slender man crosses the street and walks toward them. He smells of dust and of
age. His legs, arms, neck, and belly are taut, a man practiced in labor by back and arm.
His leathery skin is smooth and dark covered at the chin and the side of his face with the
bristle of white whiskers. As he moves toward the soldiers, his yellow baseball hat
vanishes into the hue of the building. His stride is even, purposeful, unencumbered by
Army presence.
He has purpose, and she perched snugly in the crook of his left arm—a bobhaired young girl
who couldn’t have known her fourth year. Her yellow baseball hat is worn catcher style. There is
no talk between. But there is the touch of mutual affection, his protection.
They turn the corner at the far end of the building. The soldiers, unaware of the
girl and her papa, stroll from the portico toward the new esplanade presided over by
Simon Bolivar and his nameless horse. They gather in the unkempt order of two files and
with the authority of their smiling sergeant, they gangle west toward the sea. A crow flies
above them squawking.
Soldiers and police cover Colombia, as numerous as small stores in every
neighborhood. Randomly, buses are pulled over and searched, sometimes their
passengers. Identity cards are checked; moto-taxi licenses are checked. During Carnival
and holy days, armed boys in uniform stand watch over each corner wherever people
gather.
The sun’s near the sizzle of the sea. He returns, this grizzled figure with beauty on
his arm. In his free hand, he holds a small sack. Candy for his love.
Surprise
Red, though not exactly red, or pink, or maroon, still a warm glow blossoms like
early roses. If they provided an odor it would be a fictitious rosy lavender. But they are
not for smell or touch. The eyes apprehend them clearly. And this sight provokes other
senses into a stream of emotions.
We will return.
Hours before, the brain-thump begins with a stomach drumming like a dirge.
Along the vacant lot of a highway, the airport, a luminous many pointed tent beckons, or
warns, “Stand clear!” Initial anxiety began with packing too much in too small. Now it
intensifies with the regular thud of tires on pavement. Tarmac? Overactive thoughts cased
in a weary body wonder, “Where’s my passport?” “Tickets?” Check again, once more.
The cranky worry intensifies when the ease of an e-ticket from a euphemistic
kiosk fails to show.
False assurance arrives at the gate, then evaporates: first a frantic search for
tickets, the ambiguity, “Will they have enough seats?” A peruse of passengers brings a
kind of assurance. Who enjoys flying, this inhuman process of cattle searched and
stamped and sent, maybe. A few do, surrounded by friends, or family. They laugh, nibble
through pretzels then McChicken then granola bars. All the while they chatter on about
stuff, stuff of camping trips, the last trip to Aruba, the not-to-serious worries about
connections in Miami. They look and sound happy. No bleary eyes or helpless gut. How
joyful to join their happy band.
The rest grouse with internal grumble, it helps.
What the hell is, “Flight attendants prepare for cross-check!” They’ve been
checking continuously. The welcome to, “United Airlines Flight 234 with direct service
to Atlanta,” by the less than enthusiastic Belinda, Someone might miss the various
repetitions, though, while memorizing the fabric pattern of the seat just ahead of one’s
nose.
The door seals. They can’t eject us now (horrible word choice). Buckle. The
assurance of John Wayne sitting the cockpit’s left seat rasps with confidence: sit back
folks; this flight could be done with eyes closed. Please God! Even though we are thirty
minutes past departure, he assures—we’ll make it up.
When the tractor meant to push us away from the gate blows a tire, the god of the
controls, in a manner of therapeutic calm, reassures that we will touch down at Atlanta
nine minutes ahead of schedule, “… the scheduling protocol.
Nearby, a woman grips and counts to one-hundred twice from engine thrust to the
hint of aircraft leveling. No sound utters through the slow motion of her lips. Three more
launches and touch downs before the destination time, first Atlanta.
Two hours of fidgeting, the first with hope for sleep, then, with hope abandoned,
skimming through Sky Store. Head bumping stares out the aquarium oval windows
reveal a change from empty skies to cheesecloth illuminated by glaring white wing lights.
Mr. J.W. off-handedly orders the attendants to take their seats for the imminent air
meeting ground. They never do. We descend. The wing lights dim and glare through the
white gauze. Flaps extend downward. Suddenly the engines scream. The decline instantly
reverses to incline near the attitude of a NASA rocket. No landing. Silence. Once again
knowingly acknowledges what is known, there’s fog in Atlanta, lots of fog. We’ll give it
another go. Yep, those flight traffic controllers have their rules about the space between
fog and ground. Will give it another go.
Several minutes pass, abruptly a swan dive through opaque white. Pull up. The
voice is unflappable, “Well, folks, Cincinnati is a lovely destination. It’s only 42-minutes
away. Our ground folks there will take a look at all the connecting flights and I think
they'll be able to help most of you out. Why, you might get a flight out of there sooner
than you think. So, I’m gonna give the gate agent a call and see what he can do for us.”
The onboard rumbling intensifies.
Miami, then out over the Caribbean, and gratefully, the asphalt appears and upon
it, one of dozens of yellow taxi to negotiate the thunderous cacophony of Barranquilla
and two-hours, thereabouts, to Santa Marta. But the season is festival, the cab slows, and
two-hours devolves to four. Victor, the driver and articulate instructor in Spanish and
speeds to a stop at one of thousands of roadside stands. He totes de-haired coconuts with
straws through their opened top. Not bad. The crawl proceeds, but barely. At midnight,
the streets are brimming. Bicycle passes us, sometimes people afoot.
At last, number 703, she bids, “Wait, and shut your eyes.” The temptation
involves a protest in rank terms. “Now you can come in,” a scratchy voice welcomes.
All is dusk in the room the space that surrounds kitchen, couch and chairs, and a
long glass-top table. In one corner, the red glow. Homecoming through the luminance of
love from a woman who dressed-up Charlie Brown’s Christmas tree.
Over the Ocean Blue
He read in the manner of his sleeping supported by a hammock stretched
diagonally across the bedroom. His sturdy height ended in cropped black hair; a haircut,
he performed intermittently aided by a mirror. His snipped here and there until all was
even, mostly. His name added a middle-eastern spice to his native Colombian ancestry
He fancied the guitarra, played with care, and sang with tenderness. Until this morning,
he had never ventured offshore from his native Santa Marta.
The craft was on loan from a friend. The red gel coat showed dappled pink, a
vintage kayak. The Colombian and his Australian friend, a sailor of some experience
wrenched the boat out of a small storage room and banged it up three flights of stairs. The
crumbling concrete stairs outside the apartment building led from beach to lobby. The
temptation to cast the kayak from the stairs to the water was countered by the likelihood
of missing the water altogether.
They heaved the boat up the switchback rise to the lobby of the apartment
building. The building stood at the top of a steep hill. The prospect of lugging the boat
down the street and then to the beach felt daunting. The porter spoke of a wheeled carrier.
They returned to the storage room and foraged for the trailer. Following some
adjustments, the boat balanced its way to the edge of the Caribbean. One man guided the
bow; the other anchored the stern with his weight.
The launch was uneventful. With inelegancy, the boatman synchronized
paddling, banged their paddles, and tried again. They set a course for El Morro a tiny
block of rock island. A single house gripped the yellow rock at various levels. The
Colombian couldn’t say who lived there; mystery with white caps pounding Yesterday
the wind had blown fierce from the north. Gusts pushed people sideways on the street.
Grit brushed their teeth. Sand, newspapers, plastic bags, and shore birds flew together
restless. The two men agreed to give the day a try. The sky and the sea mirrored restless
blue.
With the breeze astern, they gained El Morro in forty minutes. They decided to try
for Playa Blanca. This beach is reachable only by boat and they were past the half-way
point. The turn toward Playa Blanca exposed them to the strength of the wind. Spray
struck the boat with regularity of a morning shower. They smelled of the sea. The
paddling took their breath. After twenty-minutes, El Morro remained in exactly the same
position on the port side. No headway. They laughed and tried harder, “put your back into
it lad,” the Australian commanded.
Still the island remained in the same position. In a growing weariness, the downunder sailor
counseled it best to steer the kayak off the wind and toward the western point
of Rodadero beach where they had begun. Paddling would be easy with the wind at their
backs.
Without looking anywhere but in down, they were surprised when a worn power
boat drew alongside and circled the kayak. The wind made it hard to hear. The gist was,
“We’ll give you a tow otherwise you’ll end up in Barranquilla.” Barranquilla was two
hours south by car. The Aussie’s, “No,” expressed confidence and was exclaimed without
hesitation. “No, we’re fine, gracias.”
Seafaring folk know the wind is fickle. On the other hand, a landlubber would
conclude that if the wind was blowing in your face turning a 180 degree would bring the
wind against your back. Not so here. The wind thunders down various arroyos in the
foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Thus, the kayakers paddled against the breeze, and now,
against the current. They paddled hard with concern about synchronization abandoned.
There was progress. But then almost imperceptivly the Aussie in the after seat felt a
curious sensation. The kayak seemed sort of tippy. That thought was dismissed, after all,
these boats are extremely buoyant, and they have self-draining scuppers. He assumed
they must be sideways to the current with the wind dead astern. Minutes later the weird
play of the boat was getting worse or his imagination was getting better. Then he put his
legs over each side trying to balance the growing awkwardness. The kayak was definitely
tippy. But that cannot be, he reasoned. The boat drains automatically—water flows in,
water flows out.
The draining part was less clear. Why was the boat so loopy? Why indeed. The
drain holes were now underwater; there was less and less control. “Paddle! Paddle hard!”
The kayak began to yaw and roll. Then, in slow motion, the boat reversed itself,
top became bottom, and bottom became top. When the worst happens fear rests. The
sailors laughed as they clung to the red log. The Colombian bobbed in his yellow
lifejacket as he gripped the stern. There was some sputtering from both. The horizon appears
the near when the eyes is three inches from sea level. They estimated the crumbling
concrete pier two futbol fields distant. They had launched from the beach near the pier.
They considered swimming to shore in the life-jackets and let the boat fend for
itself. Unfortunately, the kayak belonged to a friend. They should try to return it. They
attempted to swim the boat shoreward—one hand for the swim, one for the boat—
without success.
After various strategies to bring the boat to sand, they hit upon one that looked a
failure from the beach. The Colombian, a less than confident swimmer, clung to the stern
and kicked. The Aussie flipped a paddle lengthwise on the upturned bottom, moved
forward, and wrapped each leg around the bow. Trying to retrieve the paddle proved
several failures, but last he had it hand. He lay belly up in the water and stroked
backwards. The indignity of their return was exceeded only by the un-wisdom of their
launch. It occurred more than once to the Australian as he paddled on his back that
seaman must assess the seaworthiness of an unfamiliar boat while on shore and not on the
sea.
So it was that from the beach two old men, sun-dyed, and skinny as boys followed
these proceedings without comment. The kicking and paddling continued with increasing
periods of rests. Twice the Australian lost his leg grip and let the paddle go. As he began
again he called out, “Hey, mi amigo, can you touch the bottom?” “No,” occurred five
times. The estimated distance to shore lengthened. At last, feet felt sand. They rested
secure in the warm inshore water. Now they pushed and pulled the waterlog of a boat.
Finally they reached the beach.
They paused. They looked at each other. “The boat is full of water—very, very
heavy.” They waited until a wave might aid their efforts and lift the water-swollen kayak
ashore. No such gift was offered inches of surf. They wiggled the bow and stern back and
forth all the while pulling to get the boat out. Little progress. Both looked helplessly at
the gathering of observers, no takers. Now dried and sweating, they continued the wiggle
and heave of the bow and stern of the kayak until it cleared the water and squashed down
on the wet angle of beach. They bent over their knees for breath. The Colombian felt
dizzy and steadied himself with a hand on the kayak and stared back toward the stern.
And there rose a fountain. Actually, several fountains flowed upward through
nine exceedingly poor attempts at fiber-glass patching. He stared and both began to
laugh.
The View from Here
by Rick Scheideman (Primavera, 2010)
To the northeast, the eye caught a glint like a star as the sun rose above a distant
summit, the Sierra Nevada. I leaned against the concrete retaining wall of the balcony. A
classroom door was unlocked behind me. In ten minutes, 15 high schoolers would ascend
the stairs, open and slam the door numerous times, and then I would turn toward English.
On that early spring morning, gazing at the sunlight emerging from a mountain, a
transformation began its measured pace. In light is hope.
Kimberly and I desired adventure. We got it. Our journey began with
conversations on Skype with friend Kim O’Hagan, and an introduction to his wife Sylvia.
Our “yes” to an invitation meant paperwork, excitement, and fear, and more paperwork.
Then came the touchdown in Barranquilla, a subsequent a jolt of heat and humidity, lines
of worn travelers at Immigration Control, baggage inspection, and a language we knew
about and knew nothing.
Santa Marta drew me the first day. Through the switchback pass from
Rodadero to downtown Santa Marta, I marked the vista. From my youthful tramping the
Colorado mountains, I felt the value of height distance. Santa Marta blankets from the
harbor toward the Sierras on the floor of a coastal valley that branches northeast toward
Parque Tayrona and southwest back to the beaches of Rodadero.
That was my first view. Then there were days, weeks, littered with bumpy
emotions, tears leaked. Slightly and slowly I gained balance in an unsteady world and
leaned against the willing care of a community called Bureche.
After more than two years, I still mark that vista each time. Daily I rediscover the
privilege of being part of Santa Marta. I live in a city whose name I hadn’t known until
three years ago. This name has marked my life indelibly.
Yes, there are mosquitoes and wasps in a variety of shapes and sizes. Motos,
taxis, and trucks behave like mosquitoes. One is never sure about the mental state of
one’s taxi driver. If there are baby booties hanging from the rear view mirror, chances
favor relative tranquility. If not, well then you take your chances. Now and then a taxi
accelerates and swerves at the whim of a want-to-be NASCAR driver—best to look out
the side window and whisper for your planned destination.
When the breezes fade, the heat warms as a topic for conversation, or the rain
created rivers in Guira—weather, of course, the world-wide topic.
Samarios’ value what all people desire: care for their children; love and
friendship; the telling of a joke and a bask in the laughter; to feel the warmth of an arm
around the shoulder, to belong. The differences between all of us are only in the
expressions of those desires in cultural practice. Examples: I try to figure out at the
check-stand how much money I owe (initially I avoided this by giving the clerk more
pesos than I figured the cost—my figuring often erred on the side of not enough); or,
smiling clueless at the portero who explains directions to the ferreteria: or stuttering
symptoms in irreparable Spanish to a sympathetic doctor equally challenged by English.
The beauty of Santa Marta resides only partially in her Sierra Nevada, the village
of Taganga, or stretches of white and blue along Parque Tayrona’s coast. Mostly, the
beauty of Santa Marta is her people. The resplendence that is Santa Marta occurs in an
unexpected smile in the elevator, the patient explanation of directions from here to there,
a handshake—all and all it is the willingness of your people, Santa Marta, to open your
hearts to a blundering stranger who butchers your gracious language and offends your
sensibilities in unthoughtful ways.
The family away from my family is Bureche, a grace of love—and those eager,
unforgettable faces that laugh, and yell, and weep, and wonder, and stumble, and now
and then say, “Ah hah!”
My, oh my, how we have all grown.